The Official Newspaper for Foster County

Field and Garden: Winterizing trees and ripening tomatoes

Our trees and shrubs need some care as winter approaches.

If conditions remain dry, then it’s recommended to thoroughly water evergreens before the ground freezes.

By filling the needles with water, we can protect them from wind.

Now is also the time to reinstall white tree guards around the trunks of young trees.

The guards will prevent cracking and protect against wildlife.

Linden, mountain ash, maple and fruit trees are especially sensitive and should be protected for at least five winters.

Here are some questions that I’ve encountered recently:

Q: How can I ripen the last of my tomatoes?

Any tomato showing a blush will likely ripen off the vine.

Fruits with cracks or disease spots are prone to spoil, so they should be thrown away.

The tomatoes that you want to ripen should be kept in a dark, well-ventilated area. Sunlight causes the outer skin to turn red before the inner flesh develops flavor.

Set the tomatoes on a layer of newspaper. A newspaper sheet placed over the top of the tomatoes can help trap ethylene gas, which is naturally emitted as the fruit ripens.

Several apples placed among the tomatoes may speed ripening.

Check the tomatoes every day or so and remove any that show signs of spoilage.

Q: Is it too late to sow grass seed?

Mid-August through mid-September is the ideal time to sow grass in our region.

If you sow now, the seeds may sprout, but the seedlings probably won’t survive the winter. There isn’t time for them to get established.

“Dormant seeding” is an alternative to consider.

The idea is to sow grass late in the fall – after the weather turns cold, but before the ground freezes. Usually this is sometime between late October and early-November.

The seeds will remain dormant all winter and then sprout when the weather turns warm in the spring.

When dormant seeding, the recommendation is to increase the seeding rate by 10 to 15 percent compared to normal.

Use a hand rake to mix the seed into the soil. Irrigate the soil after sowing, but don’t overwater.

Remember not to apply crabgrass preventer in spring. The herbicide will kill all germinating grass seedlings, including your desirable lawn grass seedlings.

Q: When should I harvest winter squash?

A hard glossy rind, dry stands on the stem and an orange spot on the underside of the squash: these are the signs that a winter squash is ready to be picked.

Winter squash can handle a light frost, but the fruit should be brought indoors before a hard freeze.

Buttercup, butternut and most Hubbard squash should be cured in warm temperatures for about ten days before going into storage.

These squashes will become sweeter as they age, so wait a month or so before using them.

Acorn, delicata and spaghetti squashes do not need to be cured. They can be eaten immediately after harvest.

If you have questions about your lawn and garden, please contact me in the Foster County Extension

Office (652-2581, [email protected]).

 
 
Rendered 04/02/2024 19:40